A Guide to Japan’s Geothermal Hells: Beppu and Noboribetsu
Japan’s volcanic landscape creates some of its most unusual sightseeing destinations. In Beppu, steaming ponds, bubbling mud pools and vividly coloured springs are known as the “hells”, or jigoku. Far north in Hokkaido, Noboribetsu’s Jigokudani, meaning “Hell Valley”, offers a wilder experience among sulphur fumes, hot streams and forested mountain paths.
These places are for viewing rather than bathing. The water can be dangerously hot, and the strong smell of sulphur is part of the experience. For Australian travellers, they make a memorable addition to a wider Japan itinerary, whether you are travelling from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane or Perth and want to see a side of the country beyond the major city circuit.
What makes Japan’s geothermal hells special
The hells are volcanic hot springs formed by underground heat, mineral-rich water and gases rising through the earth. Their colours can range from cobalt blue to rusty red, while some pools produce thick white steam or constantly bubbling mud. The appearance changes with weather, light and volcanic activity.
Beppu and Noboribetsu are different from ordinary onsen towns. A traditional hot spring is designed for bathing, while a jigoku is generally a dramatic natural display. Visitors follow paths, viewing platforms and boardwalks to observe the pools safely. Some sites also use the heat for local cooking, including eggs, vegetables and seafood.
Exploring Beppu’s famous hells
Beppu’s Jigoku Meguri, or Hell Tour, usually refers to seven major sites in the Kannawa and Kamegawa areas. Umi Jigoku is recognised for its clear blue water and broad, tropical-looking grounds. Chinoike Jigoku has a striking red colour caused by iron oxide and other minerals, while Oniishibozu Jigoku features grey bubbles resembling shaved monks’ heads.
Kamado Jigoku, Oniyama Jigoku, Shiraike Jigoku and Tatsumaki Jigoku each offer a different atmosphere. Tatsumaki is a geyser that erupts at intervals, so checking the timing can help you avoid a long wait. A combination ticket is usually better value than paying separately if you intend to visit most of the sites.
The hells are spread across a hilly area rather than being one compact attraction. Local buses connect the main locations, although the timetable may require patience. Comfortable shoes are useful, especially if you plan to combine the viewing areas with Kannawa’s steam-filled streets, foot baths and small restaurants.
Discovering Noboribetsu’s volcanic valley
Noboribetsu Jigokudani is more concentrated and atmospheric than Beppu’s circuit. A short walk from the town brings you to a crater-like valley where vents release sulphur smoke and streams carry hot mineral water downhill. Timber paths and viewing platforms make it easy to see the activity without a strenuous hike.
The nearby Oyunuma Pond has dark, hot water, while the Oyunuma River Foot Bath offers a chance to rest beside a naturally heated stream. The walking routes become especially atmospheric in cool weather, when steam hangs over the valley. Wildlife and forest scenery also make Noboribetsu feel more remote than the urban surroundings of Beppu.
Getting there and building a route
Beppu is a practical stop on a Kyushu itinerary. From Hakata Station in Fukuoka, the limited express Sonic reaches Beppu in roughly two hours, and the city is also served by trains from Oita Airport via nearby transport connections. From Beppu Station, buses run towards Kannawa and the main hells.
Noboribetsu works well as a side trip from Sapporo. Limited express trains reach Noboribetsu Station in about an hour, followed by a local bus to the hot spring town. The station and the onsen district are separate, so allow time for the bus connection. Visitors continuing through Hokkaido can combine it with Lake Toya, Otaru or the southern route towards Hakodate.
For travellers interested in Japan’s broader history, a self-guided visit to Himeji can fit naturally into a separate Honshu journey; this Himeji Castle guide is useful when planning that detour.
Food, bathing and local customs
Beppu’s steam cooking is one of the area’s most distinctive food experiences. Restaurants and facilities use geothermal steam to cook items such as eggs, vegetables, meat and seafood. The flavours are generally simple, allowing the ingredients to stand out. Try a small selection rather than expecting a full restaurant-style meal at every hell.
If you want to bathe, choose a proper onsen facility rather than entering a viewing pool. Wash thoroughly before entering the bath, keep towels out of the water and avoid loud conversation. Tattoos may still be restricted at some establishments, although tattoo-friendly facilities and private baths are becoming easier to find.
Staying safe around hot springs
Stay behind railings and follow signs, even when a pool appears calm. Geothermal water can be close to boiling, and sudden steam or splashing may cause burns. The smell of rotten eggs comes from hydrogen sulphide, so people with respiratory sensitivity should take breaks and leave if they feel unwell.
The ground can be wet and slippery, especially around steam vents and river paths. Sandals are convenient for an onsen but not ideal for walking between sightseeing areas. A compact towel, refillable water bottle and light rain jacket are useful additions to a day bag.
When to visit and what to budget
Autumn and winter are particularly rewarding because the steam stands out against cool air, while the surrounding foliage adds colour around Noboribetsu. Spring is comfortable for walking, but weekends and Japanese public holidays can be busy. Summer brings heat and humidity, so begin early and plan time indoors between outdoor stops.
Australian visitors should compare prices in yen rather than relying on a rough AUD conversion, as exchange rates change quickly. Japanese cash remains useful for buses, small food stalls and rural attractions, even though major hotels and stations accept cards. If travelling during the December–January break or Australian school holidays, reserve accommodation early, especially in Noboribetsu’s compact onsen district.
Add Beppu or Noboribetsu to your Japan plans for a vivid encounter with volcanic landscapes, regional food and hot spring culture. Check transport timetables and attraction hours before setting out, then let the steam-filled valleys and colourful pools become one of the most memorable parts of your trip.